Mold Control on a Budget
Testing & Removal Self-Help Information

 

(Instructions for tape sampling of surfaces are found on the "Testing" page.) Please understand that these are general directions here. Actual tape testing needs to be customized for a given situation. My upcoming manual, Mold Control on a Budget, will expand on the information found at this website. To be alerted to when this manual is ready (anticipated  publication date of September or October 2007), please send me an email at may@createyourhealthyhome.com and note "mold manual," or leave a voice message at 1-888-735-9649.


When I arrive at a house for a mold inspection, I do a few things for orientation:


  • Observe the house (slope, vegetation, where rain water would head, downspouts) from the street to gauge how damp I think the house might be. If I judge the house to be higher risk for dampness, then I'll take more upstairs samples, such as on furniture and at the bottom of the base molding in closets. If I see that rainwater heads for one wall on a slab house, I'll check the bottom of the molding along the interior wall.
     
    Sometimes, before I even enter a house, I have a pretty good idea of what I'll find. At one inspection, the slope of the land was so dramatic toward the bi-level house that I suspected before I entered the house that the lower level may have to be gutted and extensive water re-direction done.


  • Ask the client for a tour of the house and to point out sites of past leakage or areas where there is a smell of mold or symptoms are worse. Ask about the history of the house.
     
  • Sniff for moldy or musty odors when first entering the house and also in the basement and crawlspace.
     
  • I want to go through my routine of observing and sampling, but I also want to develop hypotheses about risk factors for mold. In other words, there are two activities. One involves working through the basic list below. The other involves creative thinking of what could be going on at this house. Both are important and feed into each other.

Sampling tips:


  • Consider composite samples to extend the range of the spot check. That is, touch the same tape to multiple spots on the same type of sample. Just don't get too much debris on the tape, or the light from the microscope won't go through the tape. For example, if you were testing an upholstered couch, you could touch the tape to a half dozen or more places on the upholstery. Or, if you were testing ceiling joists in the basement, touch the same tape to a half dozen joists. I can get a sense of how much mold is present from looking at the tape under the microscope. If mold is present on any of the joists, then you treat them all.


  • If planning to do destructive testing (such as prying molding away from a wall or making a test hole), be alert to the fact that if mold is present behind surfaces, a great many mold spores could be released by disturbing the surface. Are you sure you want to do that? If you need to check those surfaces, take care to minimize the release of spores. Cover nearby surfaces to protect them. Keep your HEPA vacuum cleaner handy. Of course wear an N95 respirator. Tape plastic over the exposed area after sampling.
     
  • Sample for where mold isn't, as well as where it is. This knowledge is important for knowing how extensive a cleaning job is needed.

Here are the places I check when I'm sampling a house for visible or invisible mold:


Attic


  • Observe the sheathing (roof deck) and rafters with a strong flashlight. Sample representative discolorations and nearby clean-appearing areas.
  • Sample the sheathing if there appears to be a dark sheen over it.
  • Look for signs of white or green mold where the rafters meet the sheathing.
  • Do a couple of tapes on various wood surfaces.
  • If there are gable vents, observe the area for discolorations.
     

Living areas


  • Check inside sink cabinets, near the plumbing.
  • Check access holes to bathtub fixtures.
  • Were there any past plumbing or roof leaks that might call for investigation in a particular area?
  • Are there any antiques, used furniture, or books bought in a garage sale that smell musty or might be moldy?
  • Without making a hole in the wall, often you can get a clue whether mold might be present behind the wall by testing at the bottom of the base mold. Put tape over the tip of your finger, and get your fingernail into the crack between the bottom of the molding and the floor. Tape-test a few spots at the bottom of the molding.
  • If water penetrated onto a top floor ceiling from an ice dam, but the ceiling was never opened up, there is potential for hidden mold on the other side of the ceiling. Decide if you want to make a test hole to check (see cautionary comment below). (There is the potential for Stachybotrys if the ceiling is drywall.)
  • If the house seems damp, spot-check upholstered furniture, both on upholstered part and (separate tape) on unfinished wood surfaces.
  • In a damp house, check inside closets, at the back at the bottom edge of base molding.
  • Sometimes mold shows up on carpeting.

HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning)


  • Take off a vent cover and sample inside the vent, preferably from the sides and top of the air duct. If you sample on the bottom, there may be a lot of debris on the tape. If sending samples to EnviroHealth for screening, include a tape from the bottom of the air duct. I can culture that and see what grows.
     
  • Using a strong flashlight, examine the AC coils for signs of mold growth. Sample as needed.
     
  • Examine the filter. The best kind are pleated media, like an  accordion pleat. Make sure there is a good fit so that dirty air doesn't by-pass the filter. You might even put tape over the edge of the filter so that room air isn't drawn into the unit. Take a tape sample from the dirty side of the filter. If sending samples to EnviroHealth, send two tapes, one for culturing (no extra charge).
     
  • Look for signs of leakage at pipes and at the drainage pan. Sample as needed.



Caution: Again, do not use Magic Tape or other cloudy tape, or the light from the microscope will not pass through the tape. I use 3/4" Scotch-brand MultiTask tape (or similar tape) for testing. You can find this in an office supply store.


Basement and/or crawlspace


Here are general questions for an unfinished basement and/or crawlspace:


  • Sample on the underside of the steps. The amount of Aspergillus growth gives me a clue as to the risk of mold in the rest of the area. I use the steps as a marker.
     
  • Is mold growing (and how much mold is growing) on unprotected wood, such as the subflooring and ceiling joists, a work table, the wood backing of the electric box, pressed wood shelves, stored possessions, etc.

In a finished basement, I'm interested in these issues:


  • Is mold growing on furniture and other possessions?
  • Is mold growing behind finished walls?
  • Is mold growing above a drop ceiling?

Tips:
 

  • Mold grows faster on softer cellulosic surfaces than on shiny or finished cellulosic surfaces. For example, mold would grow on dull wicker faster than on shiny wicker , faster on upholstery and unfinished wood than on finished surfaces of wood., and faster on dull cardboard boxes than on shiny cardboard boxes.
     
  • If mold is growing on surfaces in the basement, stray spores are likely in the air and in dust. A dust sample tape could provide a clue as to the numbers of mold spores in the air. If there is a lot of debris on the tape, send two tapes to EnviroHealth, one for culturing.
     
  • Mold can grow on organic debris on concrete. Tape samples can be sent from concrete, but the general approach to cleaning would be HEPA vacuuming and then scrubbing off with Borax solution. Take steps to reduce moisture intrusion from the exterior as needed.
     
  • Basement and crawlspace ceilings may have fiberglass insulation between the joists. If this fiberglass insulation was present from the time of construction, it may have protected the surfaces it covers from mold. If checking behind the fiberglass insulation, wear an N95 respirator and goggles. Use a stick to gently push the fiberglass aside so that you can tape-sample. Wash your hands afterwards. It's hard to work with sticky tape when wearing gloves.
     
    Mold doesn't grow in fiberglass insulation but it can grow on dust in the insulation. In my experience, most of the dirty-looking areas in fiberglass insulation are exactly that - dirt, soot, dust. It's still worth doing a tape test on the insulation to rule out mold.

Samples:


  • Ceiling joists
  • Subflooring (deck of floor above)
  • Underside of steps, near floor
  • Behind finished wall near floor - try to access from an unifnished room, such as a utility room. Sample the paper backing of drywall, the back of paneling, as well as the sill plate and the lower part of studs.
  • Furniture and stored possessions
  • Carpet, if present. Basement carpeting raises the risk for mold growth unless you live in a desert.

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EnviroHealth Consulting, Inc., 1-888-735-9649

Mold and other environmental inspections available in

  Connecticut - Maryland - New Jersey - New York - Pennsylvania - Virginia - Washington DC and other areas

may@createyourhealthyhome.com.

Updated 3-25-09